The Suits of Kingsman
Posted: Mar 13 2015
Kingsman, Matthew Vaughn’s ode to spy movies, has been received with varying levels of enthusiasm, but one thing everyone seems to agree on is that it’s extremely stylish. This is appropriate, since the film’s spy headquarters is located in a hidden lair under a fictional Savile Row bespoke tailor. In fact, the idea for the film was supposedly born while Vaughn was getting fitted for a suit. So he teamed up with Oscars-nominated costume designer Arianne Phillips in a much publicized collaboration with menswear giant Mr Porter to create a collection of clothes for the film that is immediately shoppable. While undoubtedly an innovative approach, is it just us who find it rather ironic that a film with such a strong focus on bespoke, has resulted in an off-the-rack collection?
We also find it a bit odd that Colin Firth only counts four suits throughout the film, despite his wonderful proclamation that “the suit is the modern gentleman’s armour”. Perhaps that should be taken as a testament to the durability and timelessness of classic tailored clothing. We are certainly fans of those values - and of beautiful suits in general - so without further ado, we present our favorite suits from Kingsman: The Secret Service...
Mid Grey Pin Stripe (VBC443, blue stripe tie). Shirt (Luxury cotton 1080)
This is the Kingsman suit that has garnered the most attention, thanks to prominently featuring in publicity stills. In classic English style, it’s a double breasted style in a 6x2 configuration (two out of six buttons are functional, though you should only button the top one), but the waist is nipped and the shoulders soft for a modern look. It has double vents for maximum villain-fighting movement and the wide lapels give an unmistakably masculine look.
The fabric is a mid grey pinstripe wool from the English masters at Dormeuil. We stock a very similar version from Vitale Barberis Canonico and we can source the exact Dormeuil fabric upon request.
The shirt is a classic white with a subtle cutaway collar, matched with a navy striped tie and white pocket square. This outfit is simple, classic, well-cut and overall very on-point.
Light Grey Glen Plaid (GT5011, navy/white dot tie)
This suit is a glen plaid (or Prince of Wales check), which looks almost plain from a distance but has a distinct pattern upon closer scrutiny. We have this fabric in an all-season version from Giovanni Tonnella, which in its slightly darker iteration also matches the famous James Bond suit from Skyfall.
Once again it’s a double breasted style with sharp lines and subtle detailing, featuring flapped pockets and flat front trousers with side-fasteners. The strength of simple style is proven once again by the white shirt, white pocket square and navy tie with white dots, which leaves a striking impression.
The film has created a real 'signature look’ with its double breasted suits, which also extends to the red carpet premiere. Wearing a navy Dormeuil suit, Colin Firth proves that he is quite the dapper gentleman himself.
Classic is key, with white shirt, perfectly straight pocket square and plain navy tie. The suit is immaculately cut (note the perfect sleeve length) and to give it its distinct sheen, we’re willing to bet there’s a bit of mohair in it. We carry versions from Vitale Barberis Canonico and (to keep it British) Holland & Sherry of Savile Row, the fictional home of the Kingsman agency - and the very real home to some of the best tailors in the world.
If you haven’t seen the film yet, check it out for a stylish, albeit silly, secret agent caper.
If you like the clothes, let us help you create striking bespoke garments or shop our handmade Italian accessories online now.
Picture above: Plain Navy (VBC2005, plain navy tie, white pocket square)
