Half canvas suits
A half canvas is our standard construction at Tailor On Ten has recently upgraded its stan.
The perfect compromise between a full canvas and a fused jacket is the half canvas. Tailor On Ten's standard construction is a half canvas, all our jacket lapels and collars are canvassed along with half of the chest, most tailors in Thailand do not do this however, many tailors will say they are just because they are putting a canvas in their jackets (see “floating canvas” point above). Fused production and half canvas construction are produced in very similar ways, but the two main differences are: 1. The lapels on a half canvas jacket contain canvassing and are pad stitched (unlike a fused jacket), and 2. The collar contains canvas or linen rather than fusible.
Due to more information becoming available online, clients are becoming more aware of suit construction techniques. Because of this and a general push towards improving quality, Southeast Asian tailors are starting to use terms like “floating canvas”, “half canvas”, and “half fused” to try to attract customers.
If you hear a tailor using the term “floating canvas”, he or she does not know what they are talking about and they do not understand or have any knowledge of suit construction. Virtually every business suit/sports coat produced has a “floating canvas”, irrespective of whether it is fused, fully canvased or other. Canvases are always stitched into place, not fused, so this is nothing special. Even poorly constructed jackets in Bangkok contain a canvas.
Full canvas construction is the pinnacle of suit production, however, it is a complex and time consuming process which requires a vast skill set. There are a few tailors that produce this in Thailand, however, these jackets are always priced very similarly to European/North American jackets of the same quality. There are no deals to be had with this construction. We recommend that if you are looking for this, you must see the work occurring on site. Otherwise, you can expect a low grade suit not worthy of the money spent.