Pants Tailor Help
BUTTONS
COROZOOur suits come standard with natural corozo nut buttons. They are made from a South American nut, which gives them a natural character. Typically matching buttons are used on formal suits. However, contrasting buttons can be a nice (and bespoke style) detail on suits, e.g., brown buttons on a blue suit can look great, especially worn with brown shoes. |
HORNThe premium option is horn, which is the traditional bespoke button of choice. Horn buttons all look distinctly different, adding further character to your garment. |
BONEBone buttons are more casual looking and make for a slightly more fashionable business suit button. |
SHELLShell buttons are made from Troca mother-of-pearl and have a distinct shine. This is also a premium – and expensive-looking – option, but also one that stands out and consequently gives a more special appearance. |
FRONT POCKETS
* If in doubt, go for standard pockets
STANDARDStandard pockets are cut at a slight angle. |
SEAM POCKETSeam pockets follow the side seam. They are more difficult to access and are typically reserved for tuxedos. |
NONENo pockets is a very unusual option. |
BACK POCKETS
Back pockets are a personal preference. Even if you don’t use back pockets, at least one is advisable to avoid the back of your pants looking feminine.
* If in doubt, go for left and right
RIGHT |
LEFT |
RIGHT AND LEFT |
NONE |
POCKET BUTTON
* If in doubt, go with buttons
WITH BUTTON |
WITHOUT BUTTON |
PLEATS
Pleats create a more voluminous trouser through bunching bits of fabric with one or two seams on either leg just below the waist. Pleats are not considered contemporary fashion.
No pleats should be the go to option, as it creates a nice sleek look. Also known as ‘flat front’ (the pants are still pressed with a crease).
* If in doubt, go without pleats
WITHOUT PLEAT |
SINGLE PLEAT |
DOUBLE PLEAT |
CUFFS
Cuffs, or turn-ups, are a classic feature, which give extra detail to your pants, at the cost of making them less ‘clean’. With little practical function, this is a choice only for those who like the look.
* If in doubt, go without cuffs
WITHOUT |
WITH |
BELT LOOPS
* If in doubt, go with belt loops
WITHIf you normally wear a belt, you need belt loops. This doesn’t mean that you necessarily have to wear a belt, but you have the option. |
WITHOUTNo belt loops is rather unusual, only appropriate for clothes you would never use belt with, such as tuxedos. |
SIDE FASTENERSide-fasteners are a classic detail, which allows you to pull the tab to decrease the waist size a little bit. It’s not as secure as a belt, however, so it functions more as a visual detail, evoking vintage style. |
FRONT CLOSURE
* If in doubt, go for clip and button
CLIP AND BUTTONBy far the most common choice is clip and button, which has a button on the outside, a clip inside and an additional button inside, to keep your pants securely closed. |
CLIP ONLYIf going for a more formal look where a button is not appropriate, go for clip only. Recommended for tuxedos.
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BUTTON ONLYButton only makes a waistband that does not overlap at the closure, which is a more casual style appropriate for cotton chinos, for example.
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Body Shape
Body shape is a generalisation of your body type. It gives us an idea of how to interpret your measurements.
Shoulders
Average shoulders have a slope that is not overly pronounced.
Sloped shoulders have a very prominent slope, if it is not that noticeable please select average.
Square shoulders are horizontal. If there is a little bit of slope please select average.
Stomach
Flat means your stomach does not protrude past your chest if you look down.
Average means you can look down and see a little bit of stomach past your chest.
Extended means your stomach protrudes noticeably past your chest.
Back
Straight back means there is very little or no curve from your shoulders to your lower back.
Average means that there is a curve from your shoulders to your lower back.
Curved means there is a large curve from your shoulders to your lower back.
Measurements
Body Measurement is our guide that will help you take your measurements. It is easier to have a friend help and you will need a tape measure.
Garment Measurement is our guide that will help you measure a shirt that fits you very well. It is our recommended method and you will need a tape measure.
Standard size just means that we will use standard US sizes to make your shirt whilst taking your body type into consideration.
Fit
Slim fit is a modern look. Fits the body quite closely with tighter sleeves.
Standard fit is a classic look. Fits the body without appearing tight or restricting.
Loose fit can appear casual but affords maximum comfort and movement.