SLEEVE
LONGLong will just cover your wrist bone, protruding slightly from a suit sleeve. |
SHORTShort is a casual look. The sleeve is cut slightly over half way from shoulder to elbow.
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ROLL-UPRoll-up has a long sleeve with a strap and button to hold the rolled sleeve in place. The roll-up sleeve comes with a single button, rounded cuff.
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CUFF
SINGLE BUTTONSingle button is a standard cuff with one button. It is the most casual option. |
DOUBLE BUTTONDouble button is a standard cuff with two buttons. Quite formal without needing cuff links.
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CONVERTIBLEConvertible cuffs have an inner and outer button that doubles as a cuff link hole.
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FRENCHFrench cuffs come without buttons and are instead fastened with cuff links. They are the most formal option.
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PORTOFINOPortofino cuffs, otherwise known as the James Bond cuff, can be folded-back on themselves with an opening on the outside for the button. |
CUFF CORNER
Cuff corner refers to the outside corners of the cuff and is a case of personal preference.
* If in doubt, go for rounded
BEVELEDBeveled (cut at an angle) tends to be the most unusual off the rack, meaning your shirt will stand out more as a bespoke piece. |
STRAIGHTStraight is quite formal and can look a bit strong.
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ROUNDEDRounded is all-round appropriate and gives a soft edge.
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COLLAR
The type of collar depends on your preference and face shape. A narrow collar makes a round face look longer and a spread collars serve to de-emphasize narrow faces.
* If in doubt, go for Cutaway
KENTKent is a standard business collar, found on many dress shirts. It has quite a narrow gap between collar points and looks great with a small tie knot. This collar is appropriate for rounder faces. |
CUTAWAYCutaway is somewhat wider than a kent collar. Our cutaway is quite gentle and tends to be the most universally flattering. Works with any tie knot and most face types.
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FULL SPREADFull spread has a large gap between collar points, creating a near-horizontal line. Definitely a collar that will stand out, but a constant favourite in bespoke circles. Particularly suits a longer face.
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BUTTON DOWN KENTButton down - Kent has buttons to tie down the collar points. This makes the style much more casual and is the classic option for weekend shirts. Face shapes are less important for button down collars, as they tend to be worn open.
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HIDDEN BUTTON DOWN KENTHidden button down - Kent has hidden buttons to fasten the points of the collar. This keeps the collar in place but makes the collar somewhat inwards rounded along the collar band, unlike the classic straight business collar that is kept stiff by collar stays. |
MANDARINMandarin is not a turn-down collar. It has a single strip of fabric that fastens with a button and is a very casual option.
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WINGWing collars are worn with a tuxedo and bow tie. The wings should be tucked behind the bow tie.
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BUTTON DOWN CUTAWAYButton down - Cutaway is a modern interpretation of the button down. The wider collar is appropriate for longer faces, but will stand out as a more unusual choice..
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HIDDEN BUTTON DOWN CUTAWAYHidden button - Cutaway is for those who like a more spread collar, kept neatly in place. Looks good with small collar wings, worn without a tie. |
COLLAR LENGTH
Like collar style, this depends of preference and face type. A smaller collar is typically less formal and somewhat more modern. As a rule of thumb, if you have a very pronounced face shape (be it round or long), you don’t want too small a collar. If the size of your head or width of shoulders is on the small side, a smaller collar looks more proportionate.
* If in doubt, go for 2¾ inch
2 3/4 inches
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2 1/2 inches
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2 inches
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3 inches
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COLLAR STAYS
REMOVABLECollar stays are used to keep the shirt collar in place by adding weight and structure. Our standard collar stays are plastic. |
SEWN INPlease note that a sewn in collar stay will eventually show an outline with continuous washing and ironing. Our standard collar stays are plastic.
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MOTHER OF PEARLMother of Pearl collar stays are our premium collar stays. They are used to keep the shirt collar in place by adding weight and structure.
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NONEWithout collar stays, your shirt collar will not be stiff but may not stay in place.
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BOTTOM CUT
CLASSICClassic is worn tucked in. Extra rounded fabric on the back of the shirt means it doesn’t come un-tucked while sitting. |
MODERNModern can be tucked or un-tucked. The shirt has an equal amount of rounded fabric on the front and back.
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STRAIGHTStraight is a casual cut and is designed to look neat whilst un-tucked.
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FASTENING
WITH PLACKETThe placket is extra material on the front of the shirt that acts as a frame for the buttons. |
WITHOUT PLACKETThere is no extra fabric where the buttons are fastened.
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HIDDEN BUTTONHidden button is a stylistic choice. The buttons are hidden by the fabric.
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BUTTONS
MOTHER OF PEARLMother of Pearl is the classic bespoke button. Comes in both ivory and dark smoke. |
POLYESTERWe offer a wide range of colors to contrast or match your shirt.
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BUTTON HOLE COLOR
MATCHINGButton holes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through. The thread outlining the holes will match your fabric. |
CHOICEThe color of thread outlining the button holes can contrast or compliment your shirt. We offer a wide range of colors for you to choose from.
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BUTTON ATTACH COLOR
MATCHINGThe thread used to sew your buttons onto the shirt will match your fabric. |
CHOICEThe color of thread used to sew your buttons onto the shirt can contrast or compliment your fabric. We offer a wide range of colors for you to choose from.
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BACK YOKE
CLASSICClassic yoke is a single piece of material across the shoulders designed to improve comfort, fit and drape. |
CLASSIC SPLITClassic Split performs the same function as a classic yoke but looks particularly good with a patterned fabric.
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BACK CUT
STANDARDStandard is a very clean look as the back panel of the shirt is just one piece of untouched fabric. |
SIDE DARTSSide darts are a fold and stitch in the lower back. They remove excess fabric for a more fitted look. Recommended if you have a curved back, narrow waist and/or broad shoulders.
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SIDE FOLDSSide folds are extra fabric sewn into the shoulders that improve movement and fit.
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CENTREFOLDCentrefold is extra fabric sewn into the middle of the upper back to improve movement and fit.
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BOX PLEATBox pleat is a piece of fabric running down the middle of the back. It is an aesthetic choice and isn't designed to give better movement or comfort. |
POCKET
NONENo pocket is the formal option and the usual choice for a dress shirt. If you won’t use it, don’t get it. |
ONE LEFTOne left is the normal pocket placement.
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ONE RIGHTOne right is very unusual. Only choose this if you specifically prefer a right side pocket.
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TWOTwo is very unusual and very casual.
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MONOGRAM
CHARACTERSMonograms can be up to six (6) characters long and contain a combination of: |
FONTChoose one of the following fonts:
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COLORSelect one of the following colors:
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COLLAR CONTRAST
Contrast details in the collar or cuffs is a chance to personalize your shirt with a range of colors and patterns. It is a more casual detail however, and do watch out as it easily gets too ‘much’.
* If in doubt, go for rounded
NONENo contrast is the normal choice and the way to go for dress shirts. |
INSIDE COLLARInside collar will be visible only when the top button is open.
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WHOLE COLLARWhole collar should be reserved for white collars, which can look great on a striped shirt for the Wall Street look.
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CUFF CONTRAST
You do not have to do contrasting cuffs even if you have contrasting a collar, but if you do, we strongly suggest that you use the same fabric for both.
NONENo contrast is the normal choice and the way to go for dress shirts. |
INSIDE CUFFInside cuff will be visible if the cuff is folded back. On a French cuff, the contrast is visible at the edge and corner, as the cuff is folded back on itself.
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WHOLE CUFFWhole cuff goes with the contrast whole collar.
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PLACKET CONTRAST
Most people go for a no contrast placket.
NONENo contrast is the normal choice and the way to go for dress shirts. |
OUTSIDE BUTTON SIDEOutside button side is very visible when the top button is open but largely hidden when the buttons are done up.
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