Shirt Tailor Help


       SLEEVE





LONG

Long will just cover your wrist bone, protruding slightly from a suit sleeve.

SHORT

Short is a casual look. The sleeve is cut slightly over half way from shoulder to elbow.

 

ROLL-UP

Roll-up has a long sleeve with a strap and button to hold the rolled sleeve in place. The roll-up sleeve comes with a single button, rounded cuff.

 







































































       CUFF

SINGLE BUTTON

Single button is a standard cuff with one button. It is the most casual option.

DOUBLE BUTTON

Double button is a standard cuff with two buttons. Quite formal without needing cuff links.

 

CONVERTIBLE

Convertible cuffs have an inner and outer button that doubles as a cuff link hole.

 

FRENCH

French cuffs come without buttons and are instead fastened with cuff links. They are the most formal option.

 

PORTOFINO

Portofino cuffs, otherwise known as the James Bond cuff, can be folded-back on themselves with an opening on the outside for the button.







































































       CUFF CORNER

Cuff corner refers to the outside corners of the cuff and is a case of personal preference.



* If in doubt, go for rounded


BEVELED

Beveled (cut at an angle) tends to be the most unusual off the rack, meaning your shirt will stand out more as a bespoke piece.

STRAIGHT

Straight is quite formal and can look a bit strong.

 

ROUNDED

Rounded is all-round appropriate and gives a soft edge.

 







































































       COLLAR

The type of collar depends on your preference and face shape. A narrow collar makes a round face look longer and a spread collars serve to de-emphasize narrow faces.



* If in doubt, go for Cutaway


 KENT

Kent is a standard business collar, found on many dress shirts. It has quite a narrow gap between collar points and looks great with a small tie knot. This collar is appropriate for rounder faces.

CUTAWAY

Cutaway is somewhat wider than a kent collar. Our cutaway is quite gentle and tends to be the most universally flattering. Works with any tie knot and most face types.

 

FULL SPREAD

Full spread has a large gap between collar points, creating a near-horizontal line. Definitely a collar that will stand out, but a constant favourite in bespoke circles. Particularly suits a longer face.

 

BUTTON DOWN KENT

Button down - Kent has buttons to tie down the collar points. This makes the style much more casual and is the classic option for weekend shirts. Face shapes are less important for button down collars, as they tend to be worn open.

 





HIDDEN BUTTON DOWN KENT

Hidden button down - Kent has hidden buttons to fasten the points of the collar. This keeps the collar in place but makes the collar somewhat inwards rounded along the collar band, unlike the classic straight business collar that is kept stiff by collar stays.

MANDARIN

Mandarin is not a turn-down collar. It has a single strip of fabric that fastens with a button and is a very casual option.

 

WING

Wing collars are worn with a tuxedo and bow tie. The wings should be tucked behind the bow tie.

 

BUTTON DOWN CUTAWAY

Button down - Cutaway is a modern interpretation of the button down. The wider collar is appropriate for longer faces, but will stand out as a more unusual choice..

 




 


HIDDEN BUTTON DOWN CUTAWAY

Hidden button - Cutaway is for those who like a more spread collar, kept neatly in place. Looks good with small collar wings, worn without a tie.







































































       COLLAR LENGTH

Like collar style, this depends of preference and face type. A smaller collar is typically less formal and somewhat more modern. As a rule of thumb, if you have a very pronounced face shape (be it round or long), you don’t want too small a collar. If the size of your head or width of shoulders is on the small side, a smaller collar looks more proportionate.



* If in doubt, go for 2¾ inch


2 3/4 inches
(7 cm)

This is our standard size - not too big, not too small, and tends to work for most people.

2 1/2 inches
(6.4 cm)

A slightly smaller collar.

 

2 inches
(5 cm)

This is a very small collar, which comes only a little further down than the collar band itself. Not recommended for wearing with a tie.

 

3 inches
(7.6 cm)

A classic size collar.

 







































































       COLLAR STAYS

REMOVABLE

Collar stays are used to keep the shirt collar in place by adding weight and structure. Our standard collar stays are plastic.

SEWN IN

Please note that a sewn in collar stay will eventually show an outline with continuous washing and ironing. Our standard collar stays are plastic.

 

MOTHER OF PEARL

Mother of Pearl collar stays are our premium collar stays. They are used to keep the shirt collar in place by adding weight and structure.

 

NONE

Without collar stays, your shirt collar will not be stiff but may not stay in place.

 







































































       BOTTOM CUT

CLASSIC

Classic is worn tucked in. Extra rounded fabric on the back of the shirt means it doesn’t come un-tucked while sitting.

MODERN

Modern can be tucked or un-tucked. The shirt has an equal amount of rounded fabric on the front and back.

 

STRAIGHT

Straight is a casual cut and is designed to look neat whilst un-tucked.

 







































































       FASTENING

WITH PLACKET

The placket is extra material on the front of the shirt that acts as a frame for the buttons.

WITHOUT PLACKET

There is no extra fabric where the buttons are fastened.

 

HIDDEN BUTTON

Hidden button is a stylistic choice. The buttons are hidden by the fabric.

 







































































       BUTTONS

MOTHER OF PEARL

Mother of Pearl is the classic bespoke button. Comes in both ivory and dark smoke.

POLYESTER

We offer a wide range of colors to contrast or match your shirt.

 







































































       BUTTON HOLE COLOR

MATCHING

Button holes are holes in fabric which allow buttons to pass through. The thread outlining the holes will match your fabric.

CHOICE

The color of thread outlining the button holes can contrast or compliment your shirt. We offer a wide range of colors for you to choose from.

 







































































       BUTTON ATTACH COLOR

MATCHING

The thread used to sew your buttons onto the shirt will match your fabric.

CHOICE

The color of thread used to sew your buttons onto the shirt can contrast or compliment your fabric. We offer a wide range of colors for you to choose from.

 







































































       BACK YOKE

CLASSIC

Classic yoke is a single piece of material across the shoulders designed to improve comfort, fit and drape.

CLASSIC SPLIT

Classic Split performs the same function as a classic yoke but looks particularly good with a patterned fabric.

 







































































       BACK CUT

STANDARD

Standard is a very clean look as the back panel of the shirt is just one piece of untouched fabric.

SIDE DARTS

Side darts are a fold and stitch in the lower back. They remove excess fabric for a more fitted look. Recommended if you have a curved back, narrow waist and/or broad shoulders.

 

SIDE FOLDS

Side folds are extra fabric sewn into the shoulders that improve movement and fit.

 

CENTREFOLD

Centrefold is extra fabric sewn into the middle of the upper back to improve movement and fit.

 

BOX PLEAT

Box pleat is a piece of fabric running down the middle of the back. It is an aesthetic choice and isn't designed to give better movement or comfort.







































































       POCKET

NONE

No pocket is the formal option and the usual choice for a dress shirt. If you won’t use it, don’t get it.

ONE LEFT

One left is the normal pocket placement.

 

ONE RIGHT

One right is very unusual. Only choose this if you specifically prefer a right side pocket.

 

TWO

Two is very unusual and very casual.

 









































































       MONOGRAM





CHARACTERS

Monograms can be up to six (6) characters long and contain a combination of:

- Letters (A, B, C…)
- Numbers (1, 2, 3…)

- Symbols (!?_/-,.) (

FONT

Choose one of the following fonts:

 

COLOR

Select one of the following colors:

 

 

 







































































       COLLAR CONTRAST

Contrast details in the collar or cuffs is a chance to personalize your shirt with a range of colors and patterns. It is a more casual detail however, and do watch out as it easily gets too ‘much’.



* If in doubt, go for rounded


NONE

No contrast is the normal choice and the way to go for dress shirts.

INSIDE COLLAR

Inside collar will be visible only when the top button is open.

 

WHOLE COLLAR

Whole collar should be reserved for white collars, which can look great on a striped shirt for the Wall Street look.

 







































































       CUFF CONTRAST





You do not have to do contrasting cuffs even if you have contrasting a collar, but if you do, we strongly suggest that you use the same fabric for both.


NONE

No contrast is the normal choice and the way to go for dress shirts.

INSIDE CUFF

Inside cuff will be visible if the cuff is folded back. On a French cuff, the contrast is visible at the edge and corner, as the cuff is folded back on itself.

 

WHOLE CUFF

Whole cuff goes with the contrast whole collar.

 







































































       PLACKET CONTRAST

Most people go for a no contrast placket.


NONE

No contrast is the normal choice and the way to go for dress shirts.

OUTSIDE BUTTON SIDE

Outside button side is very visible when the top button is open but largely hidden when the buttons are done up.

 








































































Body Shape

Body shape is a generalisation of your body type. It gives us an idea of how to interpret your measurements.

 

Shoulders

Average shoulders have a slope that is not overly pronounced.

Sloped shoulders have a very prominent slope, if it is not that noticeable please select average.

Square shoulders are horizontal. If there is a little bit of slope please select average.

 

Stomach

Flat means your stomach does not protrude past your chest if you look down.

Average means you can look down and see a little bit of stomach past your chest.

Extended means your stomach protrudes noticeably past your chest.

 

Back

Straight back means there is very little or no curve from your shoulders to your lower back.

Average means that there is a curve from your shoulders to your lower back.

Curved means there is a large curve from your shoulders to your lower back.

 

Measurements

Body Measurement is our guide that will help you take your measurements. It is easier to have a friend help and you will need a tape measure.

Garment Measurement is our guide that will help you measure a shirt that fits you very well. It is our recommended method and you will need a tape measure.

Standard size just means that we will use standard US sizes to make your shirt whilst taking your body type into consideration.

Fit

Slim fit is a modern look. Fits the body quite closely with tighter sleeves.

Standard fit is a classic look. Fits the body without appearing tight or restricting.

Loose fit can appear casual but affords maximum comfort and movement.