Waistcoat Tailor Help





       BOTTOM CUT

 


*  If in doubt, go for peak


PEAK

Peak is the normal option, where the front closing cuts away below the last button.

STRAIGHT

Straight is extremely unusual and should be reserved for double breasted styles.






































































       NUMBER OF BUTTONS

 

This will impact how low the front V is cut.



*  If in doubt, go for 5 buttons






FIVE

Five buttons is the classic option.

FOUR

Four buttons will make the waistcoat less visible under the jacket.

 

THREE

Three buttons is very unusual, as button spacing will need to be wider.

 






































































       POCKETS

 

This is personal preference, but since the waistcoat sits close to your body inside your jacket, the pockets should not be used anyway (unless for a pocket watch). The pocket choice should follow on from your jacket.


*  If in doubt, go for standard pockets


STANDARD WITH BREAST POCKET

For those who like the extra details.

STANDARD POCKETS

Standard is always appropriate, as it matches the jacket’s breast pocket.

NONE

No pockets is very unusual, but could be an option for a low-cut tuxedo waistcoat.

PIPED WITH BREAST POCKET

This is a good option if you like the extra details.

PIPED POCKETS

If your jacket has piped pockets, you can choose to match that style.






































































       BACK DESIGN

 


*  If in doubt, go for lining with fastener






WOOL WITHOUT FASTENER

An all wool back is warmer and less formal, thus somewhat reminiscent of country wear.

WOOL WITH FASTENER

A fastener can be useful to give the waistcoat more shape, especially if you expect to occasionally wear it without a jacket, while the wool back creates a warmer and less formal waistcoat.

 

LINING WITHOUT FASTENER

Lining is a cooler option when worn under a suit or tuxedo jacket and makes a nice contrast when the jacket is taken off.

 

LINING WITH FASTENER

A fastener can be useful to give the waistcoat more shape, especially if you expect to occasionally wear it without a jacket, and the lining creates a nice contrast when the jacket is taken off.

 






































































       BUTTONS

COROZO

Our suits come standard with natural corozo nut buttons. They are made from a South American nut, which gives them a natural character. Typically matching buttons are used on formal suits. However, contrasting buttons can be a nice (and bespoke style) detail on suits, e.g., brown buttons on a blue suit can look great, especially worn with brown shoes.

HORN

The premium option is horn, which is the traditional bespoke button of choice. Horn buttons all look distinctly different, adding further character to your garment.

 

BONE

Bone buttons are more casual looking and make for a slightly more fashionable business suit button.

 

SHELL

Shell buttons are made from Troca mother-of-pearl and have a distinct shine. This is also a premium – and expensive-looking – option, but also one that stands out and consequently gives a more special appearance.






































































       LINING


We exclusively use Bemberg linings, derived from natural fibers, which makes them breathable. These are generally considered the best in the world and offer superior features compared to polyester, while providing far better durability than silk. 

The classic option is a matching or tonal lining, but we have plenty of colorful options for those who want to give their suit some character.







































































       PIPING

 

Optional line of fabric at the seam joining the lining and front piece of the jacket.
Personal preference. This is a chance to make your suit your own.



*  If in doubt, skip the piping





 
 


NONE

No piping provides a more classic look.




COLOR CHOICE

Choose from one of the following colors:












































































       INSIDE PICK STITCHING

 

Optional decorative line of stitches along the lining, just inside the piping. Can match or contrast the piping and/or lining, or be omitted.



*  If in doubt, skip the pick stitching


NONE

No pick stitching makes for a cleaner look.

COLOR CHOICE

Choose from one of the following colors:










































































Body Shape

Body shape is a generalisation of your body type. It gives us an idea of how to interpret your measurements.

 

Shoulders

Average shoulders have a slope that is not overly pronounced.

Sloped shoulders have a very prominent slope, if it is not that noticeable please select average.

Square shoulders are horizontal. If there is a little bit of slope please select average.

 

Stomach

Flat means your stomach does not protrude past your chest if you look down.

Average means you can look down and see a little bit of stomach past your chest.

Extended means your stomach protrudes noticeably past your chest.

 

Back

Straight back means there is very little or no curve from your shoulders to your lower back.

Average means that there is a curve from your shoulders to your lower back.

Curved means there is a large curve from your shoulders to your lower back.

 

Measurements

Body Measurement is our guide that will help you take your measurements. It is easier to have a friend help and you will need a tape measure.

Garment Measurement is our guide that will help you measure a shirt that fits you very well. It is our recommended method and you will need a tape measure.

Standard size just means that we will use standard US sizes to make your shirt whilst taking your body type into consideration.

Fit

Slim fit is a modern look. Fits the body quite closely with tighter sleeves.

Standard fit is a classic look. Fits the body without appearing tight or restricting.

Loose fit can appear casual but affords maximum comfort and movement.