Bemberg - The King of Linings
Posted: Jun 16 2011
We wear wool for many reasons, but the foremost is breathability. Wool is light and airy, unlike polyester or polyester blends, which make you sweat and itch. But the wool outer shell is only one component of your suit, and if you want to ensure that you are buying quality, you have to pay attention to several factors.
The lining of your suit, for example, is key. If a polyester lining is used inside your jacket, having a breathable wool exterior becomes pointless. Polyester does not allow moisture to escape and evaporate, turning your suit into a sauna. Regardless of how nice or high grade the fabric is, with a polyester lining, you will not benefit from wool's amazing qualities. Wearing a polyester lining, is like wearing a plastic bag under your jacket or pants, and since lining is what is in contact with most of your body, if the material used is not breathable your temperature will quickly rise.
The best option for lining is a material called cupro. Bemberg, a high-quality brand of cupro produced in Japan, is breathable, light, durable, and with a silky touch that looks and feels great. Bemberg is made from cotton, but the makeup of the fibre is changed to give it its unique properties. The advantage of being a natural fibre is that it wicks sweat and humidity away from the body. Bemberg is also anti-static and anti-cling for a more comfortable wear. In addition to its wonderful breathability, Bemberg cupro is also good for the environment, being a biodegradable fabric produced using a renewable resource.
You sometimes hear people speak about silk linings - but silk linings is actually a bit of myth; it isn’t that good as a lining. It’s not only expensive, it cannot compete with cupro in terms of breathability and durability. Silk will wear out very quickly, and any tailor will tell you, changing lining is not something you want to be doing on a regular basis.
Trying to compare cupro to polyester, or even contemplating using polyester for a suit is a sin, and it is scandalous that so many clothing brands and tailors use the plastic fabric for their linings in order to save money. Here at Tailor On Ten we love Bemberg and we are not alone. Bemberg linings are used by many major high end fashion labels such as Hugo Boss, Armani and Zegna.
Our jackets are either full or half lined, with a huge range of Bemberg linings to choose from. Our pants are lined from the waist to the knees, and since this area of the body tends to get hot and sweaty, breathability is all important. The silky feel, durability and breathability of our Bemberg linings is part of what makes our suits special.
To test if a lining is Bemberg, you can burn it. There should be NO black smoke or residue.