Posted: May 13 2011
Wool is a wonder fiber. It is the perfect material for custom made suits.
First of all, it is water resistant. Its fibers’ hard outer layer throws off water and their core absorb moisture vapor without becoming damp. Repelling water and absorbing humidity both help to regulate heat.
It is moisture wicking. The wool absorbs moisture from the body and helps to keep the wearer dry and warm.
It is an insulator. The wool’s crimpcreates insulated air spaces that prevent body heat from escaping.
It ‘breathes’. It is a great fiber for outerwear, because it has the versatile ability to keep the wearer warm when it is cold and cool when it is hot.
It blends well with other fibers, allowing the production of many different kinds of fabric.
There are many types of wool. The most widely used is sheep’s wool. It is wrinkle-resistant, static-free, easy to dye, durable, stretch resistant, and versatile. Woolen fabrics are used for example to make suits, dresses, sweaters, blankets, top coats and upholstery.
The most celebrated sheep’s wool is merino. Most merino sheep are raised in Australasia. The wool is noted for softness, warmth and sheen. Shetland wool from Northern Scotland is normally used for luxury knitwear. Lambswool taken from young sheep is soft, smooth and silky. It is excellent for garments worn next to the skin, and is hypoallergenic. Virgin wool is wool taken from a lamb's first shearing. This is the softest wool.
Sheep’s wool is classified by the fineness of the yarn. The more fibers are used per square centimeter of cloth, the finer the count and the softer the cloth. 'Super' wools are categorized as Super 100s, Super 110s, Super 120s, etc. The higher the number, the finer the yarn. Many bangkok tailors carry a range of wool's, the higher the super, the more expensive the suit!
Boiled wool is dense, durable, and water-resistant. It is supple like knitwear but retains its shape like a woven fabric. Hats, gloves, scarves and other outerwear are often made of boiled wool.
Worsted wool has been made in England since the 1700s. Wool is spun into smooth twisted yarn that is combed anew to remove short fibers, leaving only long fibers that lie flat and parallel. Worsted does not wrinkle or crease easily and is commonly used for suits.
Tropical-weight wool is a two-ply, plain weave worsted that is lightweight and ‘breathes’.
Tweed, gabardine, flannel and fleece are other popular sheep’s wool or wool-blend fabrics.
Alpaca wool comes from the alpaca, a native of the Andes. Two breeds, the huacaya and the suri, are farmed. The more common breed, the huacaya, produces thick, crimped wool that grows quickly. The suri’s wool grows more slowly, and the fleece is longer and more lustrous. Alpaca wool is lightweight, has a good luster, is strong, and does not pill easily. It is used for high-quality suits, sweaters, blankets, upholstery, etc.
Mohair wool, renowned for silkiness and sheen, comes from the angora goat. Mohair is strong, durable and lightweight, and it ‘breathes’. It does not crease, mat or pill, and it drapes well. Natural mohair comes in many beautiful colors. Like alpaca, it is used for high-quality garments etc.
Angora wool comes from the fur of the angora rabbit. The fibers are hollow; this gives them ‘loft’. The wool is lustrous and very soft; it is two-and-a-half times warmer than sheep's wool. It has a very good moisture-wicking characteristic. As its fibers are fragile, it is typically blended with sheep’s wool. Angora wool is an excellent insulator, yet it can be comfortably worn inside. It is expensive, and is typically used for luxury items such as undergarments, sweaters and scarves. Tailor On Ten is one of the few Bangkok tailors to actually carry real angora wool. We carry a stunning Angora/wool overcoat fabric.
Cashmere is a soft, luxury fabric made from the hair of the Kashmir goat. Cashmere is the wool that grows underneath the goat's coarser outer hair. It is gathered by combing the goat’s hair. Very little cashmere can be harvested per goat each year, so cashmere is expensive. Cashmere fiber has a crimp that helps the fibers interlock well when spun. It is very fine and lightweight. The fabric retains the fibers’ natural ‘loft’ of the fibers, which makes it a good insulator. Its capacity to absorb moisture readily means that it breathes well and can worn comfortably in hot conditions. Typically it is used for sweaters, scarves and undergarments. Coarser cashmere is used for suits and overcoats.
Camel hair wool is very lightweight, soft, durable, lustrous and warm. It comes from the Bactrian camel, which is native to China and Mongolia. The hair is gathered when the camel molts. The wool is usually blended with sheep’s wool. It is used for luxury suits, sweaters, gloves, overcoats, etc.
As you can see there are many types of wool and many different qualities. Bangkok tailors carry a huge range of wools and fibers and if you are looking for a custom suit or waistcoat of excellent quality, wool is consistently your best bet. Contact us if you are interested in a wool suit.