Dormeuil: The Fabric of Connoisseurs
Posted: Sep 07 2015
During its 170 years of history, Dormeuil has been producing the finest fabrics on the planet, blending timeless British elegance with a touch of French chic. With an undoubtable reputation, Dormeuil is the choice of kings, presidents, Hollywood stars and connoisseurs from all over the world.
Back in 1842, when 22 year old Jules Dormeuil started importing sophisticated English fabrics to Paris, he could have never imagined how far the House of Dormeuil would go. He probably knew he was onto something a few years later, when the successful enterprise expanded, and both of his brothers joined what became one of the most famous family businesses in the history of fashion.
Dormeuil is one of the few brands whose history, from its origins to present day, can be tracked down through famous, innovative creations, starting from 1922, when the mill launched Sportex, the first cloth to have a woven selvedge (the importance of which you can read here). The cloth, designed to keep warmth without restricting movement, became a must for European outdoors sportsmen. Thanks to the sweeping success of Sportex the company was able to expand further, moving its headquarters to Regent Street in London’s West End, which is the world’s epicentre of textile retail.
From their new West End home, Dormeuil released Frilex in 1936. The pure wool fabric was created with a very aerated, plain weave, and a special construction that made it extremely fresh to wear and quick to dry. Dormeuil had once again exceeded the expectations of sportsmen across the world, including professional tennis players.
In the 1950s Dormeuil started collaborating with Paris’s haute couture, and the first results ensued in 1957, when the mill launched Tonik. The cloth was entirely woven in England, and the pure three-ply mohair weft, combined with special processing and finish, gave the fabric a very distinct shine.
In the meanwhile, the fashion industry was experiencing radical changes, like the introduction of the ready-to-wear concept, and the quick evolution of fashion during the 60s, but the Dormeuil family was not intimidated and, responding well to changes, introduced its very first ready-to-wear collection.
Ten years later, in the 1970s, Super Brio was presented to the public, a formal, very lightweight fabric. This creation was hailed as one of the most beautiful light mohair fabrics in the world, but the mill was not yet satisfied.
During the eighties and nineties, Dormeuil strengthened its brand further and in 1989 introduced Laser, the first high-twist fabric. The combination between prime merino wool and an entirely new spinning and finishing process created a fabric capable of ensuring both coolness and crease-resistance, thus starting a small revolution in the world of high end fabrics.
Finally, we come to present day and the fabrics that we stock here at Tailor On Ten. Amadeus is Dormeuil’s best seller - and for a reason. Fine, smooth and comfortable, yet appropriate for everyday wear, and with a design range that is second to none. Fully woven in England, it combines traditional British know-how with French sophistication, making for some of the finest fabrics in the world.
Creating Dormeuil's fabrics is part art, part science and part nature. Following these pillars, Dormeuil feeds on the astonishing quality of carefully selected raw materials, the expertise gained in 170 years of tradition and the aid of modern technology, a factor crucial to innovation and improvement.
The noble fibers harvested for Dormeuil cloths are as diverse as the animals they come from, animals sometimes so rare that are only found in the most secluded corners of the world, like the Muskox, an ancestral beast that survived the ice age, or the Kyrgyzstan goats of the Celestial Mountains.
But the quality of the fibres used is not the only reason for the success of the mill. The real secret is the ability of combining those fibres to produce yarns with astounding properties, a process that is mastered by the reputed skill of English manufacturers. The production of Dormeuil fabrics also hinges on technology, and the ability to use the latest innovations to introduce new finishes and factors to improve the performance of fabrics and keep the wearer comfortable in different environments. Finally, a touch of sophistication is added by the flair of the company’s design team based in Paris. Designers passing on the passion of creativity combine yarns of different colours with a variety of weaves and textures, making French elegance one of Dormeuil’s signatures.
In 1842, when Jules Dormeuil opened his doors to the cloth trade, he could have hardly envisaged the inception of a business that would eventually span across the world's five continents, emerging 172 years later as the purveyors of the world's finest fabrics. Since the inception of the brand, The House of Dormeuil has been very astute at interpreting the needs of modern gentlemen, and, in time, the mill has satisfied the needs of the most demanding customers in luxury, including brands like Gucci, Prada and Chanel.
At Tailor On Ten, we are proud to stock some of Dormeuil’s exquisite cloths, like the Amadeus 365. Come and see us at our shop to run your hands over the fabrics and know what luxury feels like.
DOR202167: Nailhead subtlety at its finest. This fabric has tremendous depth and a beautiful color, while the pattern is muted enough to wear easily with everything you throw at it.
DOR202142: In terms of unique designs with high wearability, this check with varying shades of grey is a great choice. With a summery color and amazing pattern definition, this suit will make you stand out for all the right reasons.
DOR202040: For a truly to classic business suit, you cannot go wrong with a charcoal pinstripe. Or try a double breasted version for a touch of vintage gangster style.
DOR202037: This birds eye pattern is larger in scale than the nailhead, with more texture, making it more appealing in cold weather. The ice blue color is a great choice, especially styled with a classic white shirt and strong accent accessories.