The Wolf Of Wall Street
Posted: May 06 2014
After the great success of the movie "The Wolf of Wall Street", Leonardo DiCaprio was tired of baggy suits and we were honored when he came to our shop to get measured up for a more sleek looking suit for the upcoming Cannes Festival!… While Ben measured him up, Leo talked us through the look of his recent Scorsese collaboration…
(ok, so maybe it's a waxwork but we couldn't resist! Leo, please feel free to come in anytime!)
The suits worn in the movie are sure to cause varying opinions, especially given the 90s’ lack of style credentials. As Leo, or his character Jordan Belfort, becomes increasingly successful in his morally suspect banking ventures, his style evolves. Initially wearing horrendous, baggy suits, Jordan soon trades up to full bespoke. The keyword is power dressing, which in the 90s meant billowing suits with powerful shapes and – of course – designer labels (read about Tailor On Ten’s fabric labels here).
With today’s slim cuts, the suits in the film might seem dated, but you have to give credit to costume designer Sandy Powell for recreating the era expertly and actually making the 90s look cool. While Leo seems to pull off almost anything, the true genius is Powell, a legendary film costume designer with 10 Oscar nominations and an OBE. In real life, Tailor On Ten shipped suits to Belfort almost weekly… No, that’s not quite true. New York-based bespoke tailor Anthony Gilberto made Belfort’s suits – but they were obviously not as nice as if we’d made them (see why).
For the film, Powell was inspired by designers such as Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani (who created two suits for the film). In fact, Armani heavily influenced the look of early 90s suits. Following the boxy cuts of the 80s, he trimmed the waist, while leaving the shoulders wide and padded. The chest was also wide with large peak lapels, which together with a low button placement created a V shape that gives a masculine, powerful impression. The trousers were pleated and generous for a strong, voluminous look.
The fabrics come in various shades and patterns, the most prevalent being the pinstripe. Considered the banker’s go-to for years, pinstripes elongate the wearer. Most fabrics are on the heavy side to reinforce the masculinity and provide strong drape. We stock everything from 250 to 320 grams/meter, to satisfy all tastes and climates. While Belfort’s suits verge on oversized, some aspects are quite trendy at the moment. Double-breasted suits are increasingly popular, but in trim cuts with modern fabrics (see our previous article). Peak lapels are currently seen on some of the world’s most stylish men, now on figure-hugging jackets with softer shoulders.
Belfort’s shirts are subdued and while some feature the iconic white contrast collar of the 80s, most have a matching narrow long-tipped collar. Together with conservative suit colors, the conspicuous element instead goes to loud, wide ties. The neckwear acts as the playful component, with strong colors and intense patterns (for more on ties…). If you like them bold like Belford, have a look at our Italian silk accessories - there are plenty of choices for tie enthusiasts. Other compulsory accessories include the chunky gold Rolex, Gucci loafers, Ray-Ban wayfarers and a well-coiffed side comb.
Like them or not, the film has some well-made suits and there’s a thing or two that that can be taken away for inspiration, and mixed with today's fashion can create outstanding outfits. If in doubt, speak to us and we’ll help you find the ideal to suit – no matter if you want to blend in or show off…
We hope to see you soon, Leo!
Well, he looks good in ALMOST anything... (left or top on mobile) But we have some beautiful options for pin and chalk stripes, which are still great professional choices and will look great paired with a red dotted Italian silk tie (right or bottom on mobile).Tweet